EU Bans Common Gel Nail Polish Ingredient Over Reproductive Health Concerns; U.S. Keeps It Legal
Trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide, a photoinitiator that produces glossy, long‑lasting gel manicures, is classified as toxic to reproduction under new EU rules taking effect Sept. 1
The European Union on Sept. 1 imposed a ban on trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), an ingredient commonly used in gel nail polish, after regulators classified the chemical as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction. The measure removes TPO-containing products from the EU market and requires manufacturers and salons operating in member states to comply with the new restriction.
TPO, a photoinitiator used in polishes cured under UV or LED light, produces a high-gloss finish and speeds curing, helping gel manicures resist chipping for weeks. Several studies cited by EU authorities linked exposure to TPO with adverse effects on fertility and reproductive health, prompting the classification that underpins the ban.
Gel nail polish gained wide popularity beginning in the 2000s because it yields a durable, glassy surface that is harder to remove and less prone to peeling than traditional lacquers. The EU decision sets it apart from U.S. regulators, where TPO remains legal and products containing the ingredient continue to be sold. Industry groups and retailers in the United States have not faced a comparable federal prohibition.
The ban is part of the EU's broader chemical-safety framework, which has in the past restricted substances that remain permitted elsewhere. EU regulators apply a precautionary standard when a substance is designated as carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction (CMR), triggering market removal or restrictions to reduce consumer and occupational exposure.
EU officials said the step was based on scientific evidence showing potential harm to reproductive health. The classification requires that cosmetic products placed on the EU market not contain the listed substance, effectively barring gel polishes and related topcoats that rely on TPO unless reformulated using alternative photoinitiators or technologies.
Manufacturers that sell cosmetics throughout Europe will need to verify ingredient lists and reformulate or withdraw affected products to comply with the regulation. Salons and professional nail technicians in EU countries will also need to shift to approved products that do not contain TPO. How quickly reformulated products will appear depends on manufacturers’ supply chains and the availability of alternative photoinitiators that meet safety and performance standards.
Regulatory approaches to cosmetic ingredients vary worldwide. The United States generally relies on manufacturers to ensure product safety, with the Food and Drug Administration able to take enforcement action in specific circumstances but lacking the same premarket authorization powers that underlie some EU chemical restrictions. That difference in regulatory frameworks helps explain why a substance banned in the EU can remain on sale in the U.S.
Consumers concerned about exposure to TPO can check ingredient lists on nail products and ask salons about the specific polishes and topcoats they use. Industry trade groups have previously said manufacturers can and do reformulate products to meet regional regulatory requirements; whether alternative formulations will match TPO’s performance in curing speed and gloss remains a practical question for salons and customers.
The EU ban takes effect immediately for products placed on the market and used within member states. The long-term consequences for global gel-nail formulations and cross-border sales will depend on industry responses, further scientific study, and whether other jurisdictions revisit their regulatory posture toward TPO and similar photoinitiators.
